Philippe & Sylvain Ravier, Le Clos St André, Apremont, 2014

This single vineyard old vine cuvée now has three years’ age, giving Jacquère fans a chance to test the variety’s stamina. I compared it with its peachy sibling from the warm 2015 vintage: the 2014 has a much cooler and more classical expression. Vinous, leafy scents are followed by an almost Riesling-esque palate of mute lemon and shy apple, configured and structured by notes of stone and plant sap. Sinuous, reverberative acidity continues to hiss and curl around the wine’s core.