Clos Lapeyre, Vitatge Vielh, Jurançon 2018

This full-bodied, rich and oily number is perfect for the wine adventurer looking for something to match a full-flavoured fish or poultry dish. Clos Lapeyre is situated on steep slopes facing the Pyrenees, between Pau and Biarritz in southwest France. It's a gastronomic wine, made from the estate's oldest vines, which date back to the 1940s – a blend of Courbu with Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng. It reminds me of an orange wine – not only the warm golden hue in the glass, but the phenolic mouthfeel and persistence on the finish. Intense grapefruit and marmalade zestiness combine with a spiciness from 11 months in barrel, and it's all in perfect harmony.