Avtandil Bedenashvili, Qvevri Tsarapi, Kakheti, 2014

It’s fun to explore Georgian white grape varieties, but wines like this make you realise that Rkatsiteli is hard to better. Dramatic, authoritative aromas of orchard fruits, fresh flowers and umami are followed by a vivid, crystalline palate weaving apple, quince and pear together with beeswax, tea and a little mushroom, but the fruits retain their primacy. There are fine, abundant tannins and a well-judged, complexing oxidative note, too.