Orgo, Qvevri Rkatsiteli, Kakheti, Georgia, 2016

This wine, from Giorgi Dakishvili and his son, Temur, is labelled with admirable simplicity: ‘Dry Amber Wine from Old Vineyards’. Only vines of 50 or more years are used, with the fruit being carefully selected and some stems being used, depending on the vintage. Fermentation is in relatively new 2,000 litre qvevris. It’s light amber in colour with scents of grain, mushrooms growing on damp logs, plum jam, rain on dry earth, and flowers. On the palate the wine is concentrated, commanding and seizing, with ample fine-grained grip, soft acidity and plump ripeness. As on the nose, it’s spotlessly clean, with flavours of grape, apricot, mushroom and umami. Perfumed, elegant and long.