Bianka & Daniel Schmitt, Wild Pony Sous Voile, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2020

You’re in for a wild ride here, but buckle in because it’s totally worth it. The blend for this cuvée tends to change every year, and this iteration is Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Silvaner. It’s undergone extended skin maceration, hence the pinky-orange colour, and it’s slightly cloudy too. Not only that, but it’s also been aged under flor, resulting in a kaleidoscope of flavours and textures. The initial attack is floral and sweet, and it reminds me of Dolly Mixtures or fondant sweets. This mellows out into tinned peaches and pears, and a rush of ripe red cherries. Eventually this fades into more nutty tones with an intense, grippy, orange-led finish.