Knipser, Syrah, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2003

The Knipser estate in Laumersheim in the Pfalz continues to produce Syrah and (since 2007) a Syrah Reserve. The variety was first planted there in 1993 and when this wine was produced, in the shockingly warm vintage of 2003, it still had experimental status. It's still very dark black-purple in colour, with scents of tarry currants. On the palate it's fundamentally acid-structured, with light tannins and fruits which are no longer pungently primary – but still pure, almost unevolved, driving and crystalline. What would I have said it was if the wine had been served blind? I’m not sure, though a guess at Northern Rhône origins would certainly have been possible.