Kühling-Gillot, Hipping Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, 2016

Although Kühling-Gillot can point to more than 200 years of winemaking heritage, it is very much at the vanguard of contemporary German winemaking. Its vineyards are located in the area of Nierstein, overlooking the Rhine, and are run using biodynamic practices. Their plot in the south-east facing Hipping vineyard is near the top of the slope, where the vines sit on bare rock composed of red slate. The hand-picked grapes are fermented using wild yeasts, then the wine is racked to 12 hectolitre barrels where it rests on its fine lees until bottling. Gearoid Devaney MS: This shows ripe, juicy fruits with great concentration. Pleasing and elegant. Anne Krebiehl MW: A touch of reduction, but underneath there's an honest purity. It's a wine that is light but expressive, slender but toned. Very lean, with a cleansing finish. Sebastian Thomas: Bright, perfumed floral and citrus flavours are accompanied by a fine dash of smoky minerality. It's fine and ripe, wearing the residual sugar well. Very understated and elegant on the long finish.