Hatzidakis, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands, 2016

Phylloxera, the parasite that lives on and eats vine roots, has never made it to Santorini, thanks to the sandy volcanic soil. Unlike the rest of Europe, the vineyards here were never affected and so vines as old as 100 years make up this delicious offering. The wine smells and tastes of the sea with subtle citrus fruit, a steely minerality, and an impressive palate-tingling acidity. It has enough body and texture to enjoy with a variety of foods.