Samartzis, Mouhtaro One, Thiva, Central Greece 2022

There's an astonishing depth of colour to this PGI rosé, especially considering Panos Samartzis assured me the maceration period was just 30 minutes. This serious wine showcases the tension of the rare Greek Mouhtaro grape as it oscillates between ripe wild strawberry and a shadowy pomegranate. Elegantly structured and delicious in its first flush, this wine, Samartzis tells me, is all about the place he so deeply reveres. With it, he’s safeguarding legend status in the pantheon of global rosé. It is so delicious, that despite the painful import costs I ordered myself a case from Greece.