Karavitakis, Kompsos Liatiko, Crete, Greece, 2020

The Wine Society is on fire with its Greek range, including this distinctive and great-value Cretan red made from the Liatiko grape. It's really pale for a red, but has bags of character, with herby redcurrant fruit, a perfumed florality, and an exotic spiciness. There's no oak here, but you'd be forgiven for thinking there might be. Try it as an alternative to Gamay or Pinot Noir, served slightly chilled. Would be a delicious match for lamb koftas.