Lyrarakis, Armi Thrapsathiri, Crete, Greece, 2019

The 14% alcohol may be off putting, but this new listing is entirely in balance and would be a good alternative to a white Rioja. This native Cretan grape variety (Thrapsathiri) produces a rich, nutty, oxidised style of white wine, with fresh but relatively soft acidity, round, ripe stone fruit and lemon citrus notes, and a good length. It's been through barrel fermentation and a short ageing period in the same barrels, with batonnage. A good food wine for those occasions where you need a fuller-bodied white.