Lyrarakis, Plakoura Mandilari, Crete, Greece, 2017

The new listings from Domaine Lyrarakis (there's a white from the Thrapsathiri grape too) show just what Crete is capable of producing, wine wise. Made 100% from the local Mandilari grape variety, it was aged for a year in a mix of French and American oak, and has noticeable cedar, vanilla notes, along with grippy, rich dark berry fruits. A small proportion of the grapes were dried in the sun for three days to give added concentration and complexity. The tannins are pretty hefty, but starting to soften with age, and the acidity is still bright. A lovely food wine, you may want to decant before serving.