Thymiopoulos, Atma Assyrtiko, Imathia, Macedonia, 2017

From 20-year-old Assyrtiko vines planted at 500m, this is matured on its lees for two months with regular stirring to balance the variety's steely acidity with more complex creamy notes. Its textured lemon verbena and fresh greengage palate is a perfect choice with seafood. Apostolos Thymiopoulos is based in Imathia, in northwest Greece, and is a producer to watch (look out for his Malagouzia and Xinomavro too).