Royal Tokaji, Essencia, Tokaj, Hungary, 2009

2009 is Royal Tokaji’s seventh release of Essencia and one of its smallest vintages due to the extremely dry growing season. Made exclusively with Furmint, the 2009 Essencia went through a long spontaneous fermentation process in glass demijohns, resulting in merely 1.8 g/l of alcohol. The blending was finally finished in 2017 and the wine was aged for a further five years in bottle. Only 1,386 bottles were made for the 2009 vintage, each will be sold with a hand-blown Hungarian crystal spoon for serving. The producer anticipates a retail price at £900/$1000 per bottle. Amber in colour, it has an intoxicating bouquet of orange rind, dried apricot and mango, citrus blossom, figs, acacia honey and marmalade with a touch of herbal freshness. With sugar levels reaching as high as 581.3 g/l, the Essencia 2009 is by no means heavy and cloying on the palate. With bright citrus acidity at 11.8 g/l leading the way, lemon zest, maple syrup, more dried yellow and red fruits unravel and linger on. A rare treat that still has decades ahead.