Royal Tokaji, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary, 2009

Christmas is the perfect time to open a bottle of Tokaji, and 5 puttonyos is a good sweetness level to go for. This one is made for Lidl by the long-established Royal Tokaji Company, set up in 1990 by Decanter's own Hugh Johnson, among other founders. It's a delicious mouthful – a thrilling balancing act between sweetness and acidity, with bags of fresh, juicy apricot fruit and citrussy marmalade.