Samuel Tinon, Szamarodni Száraz, Tokaji, Hungary, 2007

An unfortified wine made from 90% Furmint with 10% Hárslevelű, using a mix of healthy, shrivelled and botrytised grapes which are fermented together to dryness. The wine is a light, translucent tawny in colour, with scents of dry leaves, varnish and old library books – the oxidative elements, in other words, are more prominent than any legacy of the veil of yeast. On the palate the wine is tangy, bright, open and very clean, with something of the searching acidity of Vin Jaune (5.1g/l here) and a dusty apricot complexity.