Il Conte Villa Prandone, Fammattì, Italy

This blend of indigenous varieties from Le Marche is a metodo ancestrale / pet nat, where the wine is refermented in the bottle but, unlike Champagne, there is no disgorgement or dosage and so the lees remain in the bottle and there's no residual sugar. This is very doughy and lemony in aroma, with some spiced apple too. Salty-edged and herbal in the mouth, the mid-palate gives a twist of brioche and plenty of refreshing lemon rind. A fun food wine.