La Battistina, Metodo Classico, Gavi, Piedmont, Italy, 2017

This offers real interest. A sparkling Gavi (the grape is Cortese), made by the traditional method, with prolonged yeast contact. La Battistina estate was bought in 2002 by Piedmont producer Araldica, and the old vines (average 35 years) are planted on limestone and clay soils on eight separate plots along one south-facing slope. There's character here – mellow, rounded apple fruit, citrus and a yeasty, biscuity note, with a good length. Makes you wonder why sparkling Gavi isn't more widely available.