Nino Negri, 5 Stelle Sfursat, Valtellina, Lombardy, 2005

Produced only in the best vintages, this flagship red in Nino Negri's range is made from dried grapes that are left to raisin after picking, before being vinified. The wine is aged for 20 months in new French oak (and then a further six in bottle) before release, but it can handle it, as the fruit is so concentrated. There's good acidity too, from the Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) grape grown on steep terraced slopes in the mountainous region. This 2005 vintage wine is still beautiful at 13 years of age – the primary fruit has softened, giving way to more savoury, tertiary characters with hints of leather. It's still intense on the palate, with attractive, fine-grained tannins. Would be lovely with local cheeses.