Nino Negri, 5 Stelle Sfursat, Valtellina, Lombardy, 2013

This is the flagship red from Nino Negri, and arguably the most famous wine from the high-altitude Valtellina region. Made from the Nebbiolo clone, Chiavennasca, it's a 'sforzato' wine, meaning that the grapes are left to raisin for several months before being vinified, which produces a robust and concentrated style. Like the 2011 vintage two years previously, 2013 was a great vintage, but more powerful and tannic in comparison. It's heady in character, deep and intense with black cherry fruit, cocoa and dried herbs. It's been aged for 20 months in new French oak, and at this young stage of its evolution the oak influence is still fairly pronounced, but all in balance. Concentrated yet fresh, it lingers on with a dark earthiness.