Bovio, Arborina, Barolo, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy, 2008

Run by the third generation, Bovio is a small producer with 6.5ha spread across La Morra, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto. Their philosophy is strongly embedded in tradition, with lengthy maceration on skins and ageing in big oak casks. Arborina, in La Morra, is one of Bovio’s two single-vineyard Barolos made by winemaker Matteo Franchi. After fermenting in steel for 12-15 days, the wine remains on the skins for 30-40 days before ageing for 24 months in barriques, followed by six months in concrete tanks and six months in bottle. 3,500 bottles produced. Stephen Brook: Subdued nose, with a hint of oak. Freshness and concentration; the tannins are perhaps too pungent now, but they give the wine its drive, aided by good acidity. A bit gawky, but intensity and persistence here. Michael Garner: Luscious black fruit aromas. Full, ripe and juicy with lively fruit, cultured tannins and a notable freshness and lift. Will develop further. Susan Hulme MW: Dried fruit nose, with attractive dried cherry and balsamic notes on the palate, bolstered by firm, muscular tannins. A chunky, forceful style but well managed, with great vibrancy.