Broglia, Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 2022

A regular in Waitrose's £10 fine wine offer, this is superb value for the price, offering a good level of interest and complexity. Gavi di Gavi, made from the Cortese grape, is a classic choice to match seafood or white meat, crisp and mineral with vibrancy and good acidity. It's a great choice if you're not really into very fruity white wines. Instead you get intense minerality here, a sense of crushed rocks, with some notes of hawthorn, lemon pith and bitter almond on the finish. There's also an attractive herbiness to it, a hint of fennel too. Mouthwatering acidity keeps it very fresh, and extended lees ageing means that it has substance too, surprisingly weighty in the mouth. The finish is fairly long too.