Silvio Grasso, Ciabot Manzoni, Barolo, La Morra, 2008

The Grasso family have been winemakers since 1927, but have only been bottling all their production themselves since the mid-1980s. Their vineyard holdings add up to 14ha, of which they own 6ha while leasing the rest. Federico Grasso is in charge of the winemaking here and has, in the words of Robert Parker, ‘produced a bevy of sensational efforts’. A bottling from a single vineyard in La Morra from vines dating back to 1968, this wine’s name was changed to Bricco Manzoni in 2010. Fermentation takes place in steel tanks for 15 days before maturation in French oak barriques for 24 months, with less than 30% new oak. Stephen Brook: Meaty, savoury nose, a bit charred, yet it’s aromatically vibrant. Nicely concentrated, ripe and silky with a seamless quality to the texture, while it shows sufficient but not dominating acidity and well-integrated tannins. Harmonious, long and lively. Michael Garner: Bright and fresh red fruit aromas with hints of liquorice and clove. Full, round and juicy with superb flesh and lavish, mineral-toned fruit. Really good. Susan Hulme MW: Cool, menthol top notes with creamy spice, dark cherry and sous-bois flavours; very harmonious, melded and velveteen, with a lingering, juicy finish.