Eruzione, 1614 Carricante Planeta, Sicily, Italy, 2018

Carricante is Sicily's most exciting white grape when grown at altitude, as it is in this wine (800m on volcanic sandy soils). Blended with 10% Riesling here, it creates a taut style with a leesy character from six months ageing in steel with continuous stirring, warm lemon citrus notes and a finish that lingers. This has a good sense of place, with good structure despite the modest alcohol.