Cantina Tramin, Unterebner, Alto Adige/Südtirol, 2021

Fermented and matured in tonneaux and large barrel, this weighty and authoritative white is full to the brim with intense lemon, juicy melon and stewed apple. Cream and spices meld with floral overtones, while fresh acidity lengthens the refined finish. Not your typical PG!

First launched in 1989, Unterebner is a truly superb Pinot Grigio, certainly among Italy's finest examples, from higher elevation sites where a longer hang time is possible. Very low yields and whole-cluster fruit, vinified and matured in one-third tonneaux and two-thirds large casks, contribute to this wine's complexity and depth. There's some smokiness on the nose, along with apple, melon and a touch of apricot skin. In the mouth it's intense, concentrated and super-fresh, displaying pithy citrus, juicy apple and melon, fragrant white flowers and bitter apricot skin, with a persistent finish.