Nusserhof B ……., Vino Bianco, Trentino-Alto Adige, 2011

Estate owner and wine maker Heinrich Mayr, a pioneer in organics and biodynamics, has saved Blatterle from extinction. Still so rare that it has yet to be officially registered, it is illegal to use the name of the grape on the label. Nusserhof circumvents the law by labelling the wine as ‘Nusserhof B ….’ Pure quince fruit and lemon peel, this has zingy acidity, and is both linear and ripe.   Heinrich and Elda Mayr’s estate, Nusserhof was once situated on the outskirts of Bolzano, real estate has relentlessly encroached on it, but Nusserhof remains a treasure trove of local varieties. Its jewel-like, organic vineyards supply the raw material for Mayr’s beautiful, lithe yet complex white Blatterle.