Cà dei Maghi, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2012

Tracing its history back to the 1800s, this small farm in the hills of Valpolicella, in Fumane commune, was founded by Fasoli Fedrigo. The Cà dei Maghi estate is modest in size, with 4.5ha of vineyards, growing Corvinone, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Today the winery is run by Paolo Creazzi, who looks for diversity in the grapes he grows, and in the styles of wine he makes, paying close attention to every detail. This Classico Superiore is aged in large traditional casks for four years. Andrea Briccarello: Cherry stone and dry plum notes rise from the glass. It's earthy and leathery, with plenty of cigar box notes, yet great freshness and vibrancy. A cracker. Michael Garner: Broad and ripe, with good breadth and freshness, and lifted aromatics of cedar and spice. It's juicy and full in the mouth, with attractively perfumed fruit flavours leading into a fresh finish of dark fruit compote and charred spice. Charming and graceful stuff. Andrew Jefford: Still fresh and fruity after all these years, with some spiced richness, too. A brightly-fruited and well-preserved wine which is fresh, deft, concentrated, elegant and detailed. Delicious.