Ernesto Ruffo, Campogadis, Valpolicella, Superiore, 2013

Campogadis is one of just four wines that are produced at Ernesto Ruffo’s winery, in the Superiore zone of Valpolicella. The others are an Amarone della Valpolicella and two Veronese Rosso wines; one sweet, one dry. Located on the hills of San Briccio, the unique microclimate and volcanic soils contribute greatly to the character of wine from this small family estate, which is run by Ruffo, who has been making wines here for decades. Campogadis is a blend of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella grapes and is aged in French oak barriques. Andrea Briccarello: Spicy first impression, with plenty of dark fruits at the back. Rich, oaky notes with plenty of vanilla and cinnamon, followed by cola notes on the back palate. Wonderful. Michael Garner: This is edgy, with strong, creamy vanillin notes over dark fruit aromas. Big, full and juicy in the mouth, with plump, luscious dark fruit flavours. It finishes finely balanced and aromatic. A keeper for a few more years yet. Andrew Jefford: Dense, rich, close-textured and suggestive. There is oak here but it's well integrated, rendered creamy by the mass of fruit. It has a sumptuously composed aromatic profile, though evidently in the richer style with appassimento fruit. On the palate this is a deep, profound, searching wine with magnificent tannic structure, powerfully sustained fruit flavours, and the innate exoticism which can come from passito grapes grown here. A masterclass in a glass.