Ugolini, San Michele, Valpolicella, Classico Superiore, 2014

This 22ha estate, nestled amongst olive trees in the valley of the Fumane commune, has adopted a single-site approach to winemaking in order to emphasise terroir. This Valpolicella Classico Superiore wine uses Corvina ,Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta grown on the Colle San Michele hillsides in Bure Alto, at an altitude of 200m. Here, the soil is a mix of calcareous marlstone and rocky fragments. The grapes are dried for 30-40 days, and the traditional drawing-off technique is used to reduce the amount of liquid in the must to enhance structure and aroma. It is fermented in stainless steel, then matured for 20 months in small French oak casks before spending a further eight months in bottle. Andrea Briccarello: Amazingly vibrant and lively, with plenty of sour cherry and blackberry notes. It's earthy and complex, showing buckets of fresh blueberry acidity and cocoa powder. Michael Garner: Packed with sour cherry flavours, with tinges of spice, herbs, grass, oak and an intriguing stalky note. It has fine balance and length, with an aromatic, peppery finale. Top drawer. Andrew Jefford: No messing with appassimento here! There's plenty of fresh, fragrant, lifted charm, and great harmony too. You can sense that the little bit of extra age has brought a refinement to the fruits. On the palate it is fine, deft, elegant and graceful. A vivaciously fruity Italian riposte to a Côte de Beaune red. Spot on for the classical style.