Kinoshita Shuzo, Tamagawa Kinsho 'Heart of Gold' Daiginjo

Philip Harper, Japan’s only English toji, or master brewer, is known for championing the cause of the traditional yamahai and kimoto styles, so it is interesting to see that he also makes a mean daiginjo. This is made from Yamada Nishiki rice polished down to 50%, with the usual sweet fruity fragrance - here of fresh, ripe pear. There is a fine richness of texture too, whose steely intensity is supported by a girder of 16.5% alcohol and enhanced by a gentle funky umami note leading to a long and satisfying finish – one that will keep and not fall over.