Sadoya, Château Brillant, Kofu, Yamanashi, Japan, 2012

Chateau Brillant arose from the destruction of the Second World War. The Sadoya winery had been destroyed, and so a new one was swiftly built in time for the 1946 vintage. This 2012 vintage has a slightly nutty nose with hints of potpourri, dried fruit and violets. In the glass it's a faded, almost tawny colour, but you soon discover it still has life left in it. The light, grainy tannins lend texture to the delightfully creamy, woody background, with mulchy, baked red fruit on top and a raspberry-edged acidity that's bordering on volatile. It's a fairly rustic expression, and there's very little in the way of Cabernet typicity, but take this wine for what it is and enjoy it with roast lamb or a crunchy pomegranate salad. Surprisingly smooth.