Dog Point, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2017

A step up from the usual young and commercial Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs that throng the shelves, and an illustration of how the style can age successfully. The time in bottle has given it a smoky, waxy, oily complexity, with some tropical fruit, grapefruit and lemon citrus character. Almost Graves-like, with a bit more tropicality. The evolution, and the four months ageing on lees, adds real interest and complexity to a wine that may just make you view the category in a new light. Keenly priced for what's on offer here, too.