Seresin Estate, Mãrama, Wairau Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand 2016

The new release of a unique style of Sauvignon Blanc that justifies its premium price. Biodynamic grapes from the Noa vineyard, Seresin's oldest, were whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in barriques then aged in barrel (11% new) for 18 months. It's a serious, concentrated, complex wine, with warm alcohol and integrated toasty oak spice notes on a nutty, textured palate of lemon curd, meadow flowers, wild herbs and poached quince. Needs time – and food.