Escarpment, Te Rehua Pinot Noir, Martinborough, 2016

From 23-year-old vines aged in French oak, 30% new. It has a dark, dense colour and brooding damson and loganberry fruits shot through with incense. Medium- to full-bodied, it has intense, ripe, muscular tannins. It's very concentrated and savoury with real impact, and needs time to open up. Well-balanced acidity keeps things rolling. Impressive, but needs ageing to show its best.