Filipa Pato & William Wouters, Nossa Missão, Bairrada, 2019

An intense, uber-characterful Baga from a 0.57ha parcel of pre-phylloxera vines, which eke out a bunch or two each. Vivid: the wild bilberry, redcurrant, red cherry and plum spirit fruit is threaded with spices. Elegant, chalky, mineral acidity smokily suffuses the saline, pine needle-edged finish. Dynamic tannins, yielding but abundant, keep pace. Young but expressive; plenty yet to give.