Niepoort, Lote D, Bairrada, Portugal, 2017

This elegant, perfumed, mineral Baga from a 1.8ha centenarian parcel reveals five spice, smoky, chalky minerality, wild shrub, pine needle and violet riffs. A saline-edged beam of acidity informs the precise, persistent delivery of al dente red cherry, berry and pomegranate fruit. Building chamois-like, pithy tannins bring savoury nuance. Terrific intensity. Aged for 21 months in a 2,500-litre wooden barrel.