Quinta das Bágeiras, Garrafeira Tinto, Bairrada, 2017

Intense smoky chalk, China ink and vivid black and red cherry and currant to nose and palate. Sourced from 90-year-old-plus vines, traditionally whole bunch fermented in lagar, then aged in old toneis. Sluicing, spearing mineral acidity frames and extends the palate, not oak. A shower of fine sooty/iodine-edged tannins brings momentum and charge. Long, linear, incisive finish. Bristles with energy.