Adega Regional de Colares, Chão Rijo Branco, Lisboa, Portugal 2020

Portugal's Lisboa region is producing some exciting wines at the moment, such as this great alternative to Albariño or Picpoul de Pinet. It's a wine for shellfish, produced by the co-op in Colares, Europe's most westerly wine region. Northwest of Lisbon, the vineyards are exposed to the cooling influence of the Atlantic, with vines planted on sandy clay soils. A blend of 60% Malvasia and 40% other indigenous Portuguese grapes, it's entirely aged in stainless steel, so no oak influence, and very modest alcohol. Juicy quince and citrus fruit, fragrant, crisp and refreshing. The bracing acidity and lick of salinity bring to mind the rugged coastline where the wine comes from – a true sense of place.