Aphros, Phaunus Loureiro, Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2018

Vasco Croft and team keep pushing the envelope with this talha-fermented Loureiro. This year it stayed on the skins for seven months, and emerges with fascinating flavours of smoked honey, tangerine and a balsamic hint. The nose plays more to sage and whitecurrants, and there are very subtle, ripe tannins underpinning the whole thing. Biodynamic.