Mullineux, Kloof Street Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa 2020

Kloof Street is the second label from the highly regarded Mullineux Wines, this 2020 offering terrific quality relative to price. Grapes come from three parcels, one on schist and two on granite, all more or less 40 years old. Enchanting aromatics of pear, white peach, potpourri and fynbos (South Africa's version of garrigue), while the palate has pure fruit, bright acidity and a pithy finish. Intense without being weighty.

There’s a robust elegance to this wine, poised but with a certain rustic edge. The saline zestiness of preserved lemon is topped by delicate pear peel and orange rind. Nuances of fresh almond and cashew add body, creaminess and complexity. Enveloping, characterful and simply delicious.