Porseleinberg, Syrah, Swartland 2017

This Swartland property is owned by Boekenhoutskloof but run independently by gifted winemaker Callie Louw. Alive and dynamic, this soars out of the glass, a touch of firework smoke to the vibrant berry fruits. Incredible energy and elegance on the palate, great freshness and focus, tiny tensile tannins and zesty acidity. Very long, this crackles on and on. The handsome labels are produced at the estate on a vintage Heidelberg press – but don’t assume there is any style over substance here: the 2017 Porseleinberg is a truly great Syrah.

Part of a mini-vertical offered by The Wine Society, this expression of Shiraz is so savoury, poised and crystalline. Expressive and lifted, with vibrant aromas of plum, cherry and dried herbs. The palate is also generous, with moreish roundness but a precise verticality.