Graham Beck, Blanc de Blancs, Western Cape, South Africa, 2017

Made in a luxurious and creamy style by the traditional method, this classy and keenly priced blanc de blancs is produced from 100% night-harvested Chardonnay grown on limestone-rich soils, with only the highest quality juice (the tête de cuvée) selected for fermentation. Half of the wine is fermented in 'Piece Champenoise' 205-litre barrels, and the base wine is barrel aged for five months before secondary fermentation. It spends 48 months on lees before disgorgement and bottling. There's lemon-lime citrus freshness, and some green apple fruit, but this is all about the lees, with a brioche, biscuity richness that feels very hedonistic. (Due to go on sale in early November.)