Swartberg Wingerde, Holism Garnacha, Piekenierskloof, 2021

Rudiger Gretschel is production director for South African giant Vinimark, but also makes his own wines in rugged Piekenierskloof under the Swartberg Wingerde label. Old vines are grown 80km from the sea at 600m; grapes are fermented with wild yeast in concrete and just 20% is aged in used oak. The result calls to mind new-wave Garnachas from Spain’s Sierra de Gredos: vibrant and elegant with appealing freshness. Bright cherry, strawberry and plum nose with a whisper of smoke and white pepper. Lovely purity of fruit on the lifted palate, allied with powdery tannins, subtle spice, a core of minerality and a lingering seam of refreshing acidity.