Bodegas Peique, Ramón Valle Crianza, Bierzo, Spain, 2012

Definitely a Mencía, with that love-it-or-hate-it, telltale acid edge. From the hill town of Valtuille. Full of smoke and dusky flowers, with a strong grip of tannin from seven months' ageing in French, Russian and American oak. A polyglot with plenty of bold character.