Bodegas Francisco Casas, Camparron Abba, Toro, 2009

Eduardo Casas is the fourth generation now in charge at this Toro estate, whose vineyards surround the cellar. This is the top cuvée, from 50 year old vines, aged for 14 months in French and American oak which is well integrated with the supple, spiced red fruit. There's a touch of farmyardy character but this adds to the complexity.