Vega Sicilia, Unico Reserva Especial, Ribera del Duero NV

The bare facts – that this is a blend of Únicos from 2003, 2004 and 2006 – disguise the lovely complexity of the wine. On the nose there is very fine cedar, rose and dark fruits; altogether a very polished elegance. In the mouth, the wine is bold, dense and textured with a note of citrus running through the dark liquorice and spice richness. It needs more time to knit together, but is very promising. Mostly Tinto Fino with a little Cabernet Sauvignon.

Showing glorious maturity, this is a Vega Sicilia to luxuriate in. It's a traditional cross-vintage blend - in this case composed of 58 barrels including 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages, left to develop together then refreshed by some 2007. The aromas are generous, all forest floor, pine needles and brambles. The palate is equally bold and structured with a firm grip of tannin running through, and top notes of freshness. Underneath, there's a savoury layer of truffle, and a very long, elegant, saline finish. The very essence of Vega Sicilia.

A blend of mainly Tinto Fino with some Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages of Unico, this shows notes of fennel, liquorice and game with a background whiff of American oak char. Silkier and more seamlessly approachable in texture than the 2006 Unico, yet intense in its fruit richness and Burgundian-like, savoury finish.