Gelama, Finca Descorbes, Empordà, Spain, 2016

For owner Roger Rius Pedret this 70 year old Macabeu, fermented in new French 300 litre casks, is ‘a white wine with the soul of a red’. Pale gold in colour with light, crushed anise, fennel and dry grass scents. It is creamy and classy on the palate, its soft white fruits given a haunting tang by the hillside perfumes. Look out, too, for the fine Finca Arbre Blanc red blend from the same source.