Vinyes dels Aspres, Negre dels Aspres, Empordà, Spain, 2012

This well-run co-operative at Cantallops (the village name means ‘the wolf’s call’ in Catalan) is sited close to the Col de Perthus, the mountain pass through the Albères which leads to France. This aged blend of Grenache (33%), Carignan (27%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (37%), with a dash of Syrah, is hugely impressive for its price. It has earthy, warm and resonant aromas, with a palate that combines succulence of fruit, lingering, chewy tannins and a wealth of dense flavour.