Bodegas Hidalgo, Pastrana, Manzanilla Pasada, Jerez, Spain

Manzanilla – typified by Hidalgo’s excellent best-seller La Gitana – is generally the lightest of the Sherry styles. But this offering takes things in an altogether deeper, more intense direction. A single-vineyard (Pastrana) bottling, it is aged for 12 years (rather than the customary five), and suggests essence of salted almond, with brisk apple, sourdough and Marmite. Great value.