Bodegas Bilbaínas, Viña Pomal Centenario Reserva, Rioja, Spain, 2008

This is one of those historic Rioja brands that has been having a well-deserved wash-and-brush up. In Rioja terms this particularly means renewing the oak barrels, as well as work in the vineyard. The good work is beginning to show – in a modern style with ripe bold fruit and a rich cherry character, underlaid with spicy, tarry oak. Good value.